The top pick in this comparison is a documented pre-owned Audemars Piguet whose caseback stamp and paperwork agree, not a watch sold under the label "fake Audemars Piguet ref 16402." Four criteria decide the outcome here: whether the reference number can be verified against factory records, whether the movement and case finishing match the production period, whether the watch can be serviced by a qualified watchmaker, and the legal exposure when a package crosses a border.

What a five-digit reference number means

Audemars Piguet used five-digit references across much of its twentieth-century production, and the number alone rarely identifies a complete watch. Case metal, dial variant, and bracelet each carry their own suffix or code, so a listing that shows only "16402" is abbreviating at best and guessing at worst. A genuine listing will show the full stamp on the caseback, the movement number, and usually a photo of the inner caseback where the two meet.

If a seller cannot photograph the caseback stamp in focus, the reference number in the title is decoration. Treat it as a description of a look, not a claim about a watch.

Option 1: A watch sold as a 1:1 copy

Pros

  • Lowest entry price of the three options, which is the entire reason the category exists.
  • Some examples reproduce the silhouette and dial layout closely enough to read as the right shape from across a table.
  • No waiting list and no purchase history requirement.

Cons

  • The reference number has no relationship to the object, so nothing about the watch is verifiable.
  • Case thickness, dial printing, date wheel font, and bracelet taper are the details that most often drift from the original.
  • Brand service centers will not touch it, and independent watchmakers often decline because parts do not exist.
  • Stated water resistance is a marketing line rather than a tested rating.
  • Resale value is close to zero, and the watch is a liability if you ever need to explain it.

Use case: only for someone who wants a costume piece for a single evening and has no interest in the object itself.

Option 2: A genuine pre-owned example

Pros

  • The reference number can be checked, and an extract from the archives can confirm the production details.
  • It can be serviced, regulated, and sealed by people who know the movement.
  • It holds value in a way the alternatives do not, and it can be sold, insured, and appraised.

Cons

  • Price is a multiple of any copy, and desirable variants carry a premium.
  • Vintage parts are scarce, and a factory service can take months and cost a meaningful fraction of the purchase price.
  • Frankens exist in this market, so a mismatched dial, hands, or bracelet is a real risk.

Use case: the right choice for anyone who intends to wear the watch for years, insure it, or eventually sell it.

Option 3: A clearly labeled homage

Pros

  • Legal to buy and sell, and honest about what it is.
  • Generic movements mean any competent watchmaker can service it.
  • Costs a fraction of an original and carries no import risk.

Cons

  • It is a different watch, and it will never be mistaken for the real thing by anyone who handles both.
  • Finishing, materials, and movement quality sit in a lower tier by design.
  • It does not carry the reference number at all, which defeats the point if the number is what you wanted.

Use case: the sensible pick for someone drawn to the shape of the design who does not want a legal or service problem attached to it.

How to evaluate any listing

  1. Ask for a sharp photo of the caseback stamp, the movement, and the inside of the caseback.
  2. Ask whether an extract from the archives exists, and expect a real one for a genuine vintage piece.
  3. Compare case thickness and dial printing against a known original from the same production run.
  4. Confirm that a watchmaker has serviced the watch, and get the name.
  5. Check import rules before you pay, because seized goods are not refunded by the seller.

Recommendation

If the reference number is the reason you are shopping, buy the version that can prove it. A counterfeit labeled as ref 16402 gives you the look and nothing else: no service, no history, no resale, and a package that can be seized in transit. A genuine pre-owned example costs more and demands patience with paperwork, but it is the only option where the number on the caseback means something. If the budget will not stretch, a labeled homage is the honest middle path.