The top pick for most buyers shopping a replica IW371655 is a column-wheel clone build, the tier where pusher feel, subdial placement, and case proportions sit closest to the genuine Portugieser chronograph. The five criteria that settle the choice: movement architecture, dial and subdial geometry, case and crystal finishing, strap hardware, and how the watch wears after a month. Every tier below is judged against those points, and each one ends with the buyer it suits.
One caution first. Reference numbers inside the Portugieser chronograph family have shifted across generations, and dial details, movement base, and case size can differ between them. Confirm the specification of the genuine watch against IWC's own listing before you measure any replica against it.
Tier 1: Column-wheel clone chronograph (top pick)
This is the build people mean when they say super clone. The movement is a Chinese-made column-wheel chronograph laid out to mirror the calibre family in the genuine watch. That matters because the pusher action is the first thing a knowledgeable observer notices, and the second thing you notice every time you use it.
Pros
- Start, stop, and reset feel crisp, with no mush and a clean snap on reset.
- Subdial layout at 12 and 6 matches the vertical bicompax arrangement of the original.
- Case and caseback thickness stay near the genuine measurements, so it slides under a cuff.
- Cleaner dial furniture: applied numerals, leaf hands, and correct printing weight.
Cons
- Highest cost of the three tiers, and stock is often intermittent.
- Servicing is awkward because many watchmakers will not open a clone column-wheel movement.
- Rotor screws and pusher gaskets are the common early failures.
Buy this if you wear the watch several days a week, handle it around people who know watches, and want the chronograph to function like one. Skip it if you want a beater or you have no plan to service it.
Tier 2: Decorated workhorse chronograph
These builds use a 7750-derived base with a decorated rotor and bridges shaped to look like the real movement. From the wrist, most people cannot tell. From the back, with the caseback off, the difference is obvious.
Pros
- Lower cost, and parts are easy to source when something breaks.
- Any competent watchmaker can service the movement.
- Robust in daily use, including heat, sweat, and the occasional knock.
Cons
- The case runs thicker than the genuine watch, which changes how it sits on a smaller wrist.
- Rotor noise is audible in a quiet room.
- Subdial spacing and date wheel font often drift from the original.
Buy this if you want the look for weekend wear and prefer a movement that can be repaired anywhere. Skip it if case thickness is your main concern.
Tier 3: Quartz and entry mechanical
The budget tier. Useful for a costume need, a gift, or a test run before you commit to a better build.
Pros
- Lowest entry cost and quick to replace.
- Quartz keeps time better than any mechanical clone.
- Light on the wrist.
Cons
- No winding feel, and the chronograph action is thin.
- Case profile and crystal height rarely match the reference.
- Plated hardware fades, and the strap is usually the weakest part.
Buy this if the watch is for one event or a short trial. Skip it if anyone in your circle handles watches.
Criterion: dial and subdial geometry
Layout errors are what expose a copy at arm's length, long before anyone sees the movement.
Pros
- Numerals sit on the same radius as the genuine dial, with consistent spacing at 12 and 6.
- Subdial hands reset to zero and stay aligned after repeated use.
- Printing on the dial is flat and sharp under a loupe, not fuzzy.
Cons
- Subdials that sit too high or too low, a common flaw in cheaper builds.
- Hands that reset a fraction off zero, which you only see after a full stop.
- Date windows with the wrong font or a font that is too bold.
Ask the seller for a photo of the chronograph after a reset, not just a wrist shot. That single image settles most doubts.
Criterion: case, crystal, and finish
Pros
- Lug curvature that follows the wrist, with a clean transition between polished and brushed surfaces.
- Sapphire with an anti-reflective coating that does not wash the dial out in daylight.
- Engraving on the caseback with depth, not a shallow etch.
Cons
- Sharp lug edges and brushing that runs the wrong direction.
- Crystal that sits proud of the bezel.
- Crown engraving that looks stamped rather than cut.
Measure the case yourself when it arrives. Diameter and thickness are the fastest way to grade what you were sold.
Criterion: strap and clasp
Pros
- Leather with a real grain and stitched edges that hold up to daily bending.
- A deployant clasp with correct logo depth and a firm click.
- Quick-release spring bars, which make strap swaps painless.
Cons
- PU leather that creases and cracks within weeks.
- Plated buckle hardware that fades to a dull grey.
- Wrong buckle shape, which is a small detail that dates the watch.
Budget for a replacement strap on Tier 2 and Tier 3 builds. It is the cheapest upgrade that changes how the watch reads on the wrist.
Pre-purchase checklist
- Request a photo of the movement with the caseback open. Stock images do not count.
- Ask for timegrapher numbers: rate, amplitude, and beat error.
- Confirm the subdial hands sit at zero after a chronograph reset.
- Check that the date, if the reference has one, flips at midnight rather than late evening.
- Confirm case diameter and thickness in writing before payment.
Which tier fits your use case
Choose Tier 1 if the watch will be worn often and handled by people who notice details. Choose Tier 2 if you want the silhouette, the dial layout, and a movement you can repair locally. Choose Tier 3 only for short-term or costume use. In every tier, the deciding factor is not the badge in the listing but the photos of the actual watch you are buying, the movement underneath, and whether the geometry matches the genuine reference you verified at the start.