The short answer
There is no reliable way to buy a counterfeit Speedmaster 1957, and no version of that watch is worth the money. The "5th generation" tag you see in listings is a seller's marketing label, not an Omega designation, and it tells you nothing about what is inside the case. If your goal is a Speedmaster 1957 on your wrist, buy a genuine example with matching reference numbers on the case, movement, and paperwork, or buy a standard production Speedmaster that fits your budget. The sections below cover what the real watch looks like, which details separate it from the copies, and the mistakes that cost buyers the most money.
What "5th generation" actually means
Omega does not number the Speedmaster 1957 in generations. The label comes from the counterfeit trade, where sellers reset the count whenever a factory changes a dial print, a handset, or a movement supplier. Each reset lets them call the previous batch obsolete and charge more for the new one. Treat the phrase as a warning, not a specification: it signals a listing that is priced against an invented upgrade cycle rather than against the real watch.
What to look for in a genuine Speedmaster 1957
Case and movement
The 1957 commemorative Speedmasters are smaller than the modern Moonwatch, sitting just under 40 mm, with straight lugs and a slim profile that sits close to the wrist. The case should feel dense for its size. Copies usually run thick because they house a stock or modular chronograph, and that extra depth shows at the lugs and under the caseback. Ask for a clear photo of the movement. A real example shows Geneva stripes, polished screw heads, and a signed rotor or bridge; a fake shows unfinished plates and generic stamping.
Dial, hands, and printing
The broad arrow hands are the defining feature, and they are also where copies fail. Look at the hand tips under magnification: the real ones are sharp, flat, and evenly lacquered or rhodium finished, while copies show rounded tips and uneven paint at the edges. Dial text should be crisp with no ink spread under a loupe, and the tachy scale should be printed cleanly with no broken strokes. Subdial spacing is another tell. When a fake uses a different movement architecture, the subdials drift away from the positions used on the original.
Caseback, numbering, and papers
Limited editions carry a serialized number that must appear consistently on the caseback and the certificate. Check that the number falls inside the stated production run for that edition, and check that the reference on the warranty card matches the reference engraved between the lugs. Photocopied paperwork, blank certificates, and cards with a different reference than the watch are the three most common problems in this market.
Parameter bands for a real example
- Case diameter: roughly 38 to 40 mm, thin enough to sit under a shirt cuff
- Movement: hand-wound chronograph with a column wheel, not a converted automatic
- Caseback: engraved limited-edition number, correct medallion or display back for the edition
- Papers: certificate, warranty card, and reference number that all agree
- Service history: documented, with parts receipts if the watch has been serviced
Common pitfalls
- Buying from a listing that leads with a generation number instead of a reference number
- Accepting photos taken at an angle that hides case thickness or the movement
- Paying a deposit before an independent watchmaker opens the caseback
- Trusting a box and manual as proof, since packaging is the easiest part to copy
- Ignoring the bracelet: correct end links and clasp stamping are hard to fake well
FAQ
Is a "5th generation" copy closer to the real thing than earlier ones?
Not in any way that matters. The label reflects a seller's release schedule, not a measurable improvement in materials, finishing, or movement quality.
Can a watchmaker tell me if a Speedmaster 1957 is real?
Yes. A qualified watchmaker can open the caseback, identify the movement, and confirm the reference and serial within an hour. Budget for that inspection before you close any private sale.
Should I buy the 2007 anniversary edition or the later Trilogy version?
Both are legitimate. They differ in reference number, packaging, and production count, so decide which edition you want first, then match the reference to the paperwork. Mixing an edition with the wrong certificate is a negotiating problem you do not need.
What is the safest way to buy one?
Buy from a dealer with a written authenticity guarantee and a return window, pay by a method that can be reversed, and get the watch inspected during the return period.